The New York Bridal Fashion Week held recently also included a few debuts from up-and-coming designers, like Zoe Rowyn and Soucy.
Several designers unveiled new boutiques and showrooms: Amsale and Rime Arodaky opened flagship stores in SoHo, and Julie Vino opened a flagship in midtown.
Nadia Manjarrez opened her first New York showroom in Chelsea, and Mark Ingram Atelier moved to a bigger space in midtown to mark its 20th anniversary.
Many of the bridal designs drew inspiration from the 1990s and early 2000s.
Shrugs
These wraps differ from the cropped cover-ups of the late 90s and early 2000s.
The updated shrug is a more sleek or stylised detail that’s converted from a detachable train or a wearable oversize bow detail, or a bolero that can also be worn for the after-party with a pair of white trousers and camisole.
“Brides are currently asking for dresses that can be worn more than one way throughout the day, a simple switch that can completely change her look,” said Ines Di Santo, who showed a 3D floral-embellished strapless gown with an oversize bow that can be styled as a shrug or left as a train.
Ese Azenabor’s collection featured a long-sleeve beaded gown with a detachable, oversize Mikado bow that trails into a train and can be worn as a shrug.
Francesca Miranda paired a strapless gown with a billowy bolero.
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Voluminous gowns
Slimmer wedding dress silhouettes, like the column and sheath, have been in favour for the last several seasons.
But with the popularity of second dresses for the reception, more brides are choosing to wear big, voluminous gowns again for their vows before changing into something more party worthy.
“It’s common for brides today to have a second, third and sometimes a fourth look,” said Mark Ingram, the owner of Mark Ingram Atelier and creative director of Mark Ingram Bride, which presented a strapless ballgown with cascading ruffles.
The collection by Rivini by Rita Vinieris included a pleated ballgown with detachable bubble sleeves.
Anne Barge showed a brocade A-line gown with architectural folds in the full skirt.
High-low dresses
The high-low gown, popular in the early 2000s, has returned.
“A high-low ballgown offers both the voluminous look and train a bride wants for the ceremony and the fun, shorter length at the front for a great statement shoe moment,” said Sarah Swann, Amsale’s chief creative officer.
Amsale showed a high-low ballgown with a ruffled bodice and a detachable underskirt that can be removed for the reception.
Other highlights included Sareh Nouri’s pink floral applique high-low gown with a dramatic tulle underskirt and chapel train.
At Rime Arodaky’s stellar return to bridal week after a five-year hiatus, she debuted a pleated silk chiffon high-low dress with an off-the-shoulder V-neckline and balloon sleeves.
One-shoulder necklines
Michelle Obama’s white, one-shoulder Jason Wu gown, which she wore to President Barack Obama’s 2009 inaugural ball, sparked a hot bridal fashion trend that has cooled in recent years.
This season, however, designers revived the look in a fresh way.
Peter Langner showed an A-line gown with an architecturally inspired one-shoulder neckline. Jenny by Jenny Yoo detailed a taffeta gown with a bow-embellished, one-shoulder strap.
Divine Atelier showed an asymmetric taffeta gown with a one-shoulder neckline that daintily draped over the shoulder.
Peplum waists
The waist-defining peplum silhouette, popular in the 1990s, is another style that pops up in fashion every so often, and this season it’s back for bridal.
“The peplum is a sophisticated way to add an interesting element to a bridal look while accentuating the waist,” said designer Nadia Manjarrez.
“It’s flattering on most body shapes and brides will find it retro, but modern and fun at the same time.”
Nadia Manjarrez Bridal showed a crepe peplum bustier with a straight tailored skirt, while Milla Nova’s collection featured an A-line gown with a peplum corset and pleated skirt.
Andrea Osei Bride’s collection included an A-line, peplum gown with a brocade bodice and chiffon skirt.
“The juxtaposition of the structured peplum with flowing chiffon brings both modern boldness and bridal fantasy to a style that has historically been executed in a more traditional way,” Osei said.
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Pants and jumpsuits
This look is as much for the nontraditional bride as it is for the bride who needs a less expected second look or rehearsal dinner outfit.
“The merging of masculine elements paired with ethereal femininity is irresistibly refreshing in bridal,” said Arodaky, whose collection included a crepe jumpsuit with a sweetheart neckline and a Chantilly lace peplum and train.
“It’s a celebration of individuality and breaking the mold.”
Kaviar Gauche showed tailored trousers with a structured bustier and mini wrap skirt. Scorcesa’s collection included a bridal pantsuit with pleated trousers and a puffed-sleeve, peplum jacket. – The New York Times